2014 Jean-Francois Ganevat, De Toute Beaute, Vin de France Rouge, France.
A crazy blend of 50% Gamay from Fleurie, Syrah from Côte Rôtie, Mondeuse from Savoie and Pinot Noir d’Alsace crafted in the Jura by Jean-Francois Ganevat from grapes source by friends in those region and from vines in the 60 to 80 year old range on a mix of granite, marl and limestone soils mostly. Native ferments and little sulfur, all organic and used casks are used for this fresh and interesting wine. Since Ganevat’s estate Jura wines are from small parcels and very low yielding vines, he never makes enough wine to supply the world’s demand, let alone his creative energies, so he does a series of fun wines that marry fruit from around France like this one, the grapes make up an exotic mix and are done in the most natural way possible, the resulting wines are fresh, lively, expressive and wonderfully playful in a lighter style. The 2014 De Toute Beaute is a bright and vibrant red that shows the 50% Gamay from Fleurie (Cru Beaujolais) as the dominate force here at this moment, though the spice and earthiness of the Mondeuse is easily picked out as well, while the Syrah from Cote-Rotie in the Northern Rhone and the Alsace Pinot Noir are hard to see and add shyly to the mix, though there is a chance they’ll shine through with more time, but overall this wild wine is a joy and pleasing in the glass. The acidity is gripping with tangy tart red berry, cherry, unripe plum and strawberry fruits leading the way with an orange zest, red peach and an impression of juicy floral elements as well as mineral tones, white pepper, loam and flinty stones all unfolding on the light and lean palate. The latest De Toute Beaute does get going a little more with air and works with food very well, though best to have with less spicy cuisine, it should prove more entertaining with holiday fare and roast chicken or turkey with a variety of sides, and cheese or salads. While nicely made and intriguing, I do prefer Ganevat’s more traditional Cotes du Jura red wines and his amazing old vine Chardonnays, drink this De Toute Beaute Nature sooner v. later, as it’s vital fresh charm is it’s most appealing quality, still it’s too cool to pass up!
($45 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
