2015 Nacho Gonzalez-La Perdida, A Mallada, Valdeorras, Spain.
One of the coolest wines I’ve tried all year and a very unique amphora raised red from Spain, the La Perdida A Mallada from Nacho Gonzalez is a blend of Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and Sumoll grown near Laruoco in Spain’s Galicia Valdeorras region. Gonzalez loves his terra-cotta pots and his wines are totally unique and ancient throw backs with a modern touch, everything is organic and natural from start to finish, these unfined/unfiltered wines offer a sense of Orange wine like savory elements, but remain poised, pure and beautiful in flavor, texture and length, especially his reds like this A Mallada, but his Godello clay pot raised white is also a fascinating wine as well, along with his Mencia Naranjita that I was able to taste at a special introduction event this last November with importer Jose Pastor Selections and Farm Wines in San Francisco. The 2015 A Mallada is spicy, floral and has layers of tangy/sweet red fruits as well as mineral notes, stony elements and silken mouth feel, it gets more interesting with every sip, this wine is a alive with character and is ever changing on the palate with dried roses, violets, saline and a lovely mix of cherry, raspberry and poached plum fruits along with cinnamon, anise, pepper and sticky lavender oil. There is a chalky cool streak that gives hint to the vessel used in making this intriguing red, but it is much more subtle than wood as a flavor, though the wild herb, slightly bitter stone fruit pit and game note mark the skin contact, but this is well integrated into the wine, which has ripe tannins and mild acidity that gives balance. More pretty than intense, the Nacho Gonzalez La Perdida A Mallada tinto is a really wonderful example of well crafted artisan Amphora wine, I was awed by all his wine, but this A Mallada really stood out on the day, and I can say with all honesty, you will never find this combination of winemaking and these varietals together anywhere else! Nacho’s wines are just being released into the United States and are extremely limited offerings, so they’ll be a tough get, but I highly recommend searching them out, I can’t wait to re-visit them if I get a chance.
($42 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
