2015 Weingut Spreitzer, Riesling Trocken, Rosengarten, Grosses Gewachs, Rheingau Germany.
Spreitzer’s gorgeous Oestricher-Lenchen Grand Cru Rosengarten 2015 is already performing beautifully in the glass and is at this stage showing more expressive detail, perfume and elegance than the other GG’s in Speitzer’s very impressive 2015 Riesling lineup from the upper Rheingau. I could almost see Rosengarten in the fading light of a beautiful day visiting with Andi (Andreas) Speitzer from his tasting room, but earlier when we drove by it you could see how special this block is and this wine reflects that, the site is not far from the Rhein, which is like a lake in effect here and the mixed soils, mostly loess/loam/clay allow heady floral notes, deep fruit essences and a delicacy that seduces, especially in a great vintage such as this 2015. The beautiful Spreitzer Rosengarten GG takes this old winery to new heights, in recent vintages the wines have really taken on dynamic personalities and charm, but 2015 sees a huge jump in presence in the glass, I was always a fan and I admire Andreas and his brother Bernd very much, they are warm and energetic personalities with a hard work ethic and great sense of humor, especially Andreas, who tirelessly, during harvest drove me and walked me around his vines and cellar always with a huge smile, a beer and lots of jokes! The rich and dry Rosengarten Grosses Gewachs 2015 starts with yellow rose petal, fresh lemons, white cherries, peach and apple flesh before a full and decedent palate that shows lush density, but also vigorous acidity, saline/savory tones and wonderful length in a broad shouldered and leesy Riesling that has a hint of wood that in some ways reminds me a bit of Von Winning wines, though this white is less flamboyant in style. I must say the three GG’s at Spreitzer, the Wisselbrunnen, the St. Nikolas and this Rosengarten are all fantastic young wines that will cellar well and be legendary for Spreitzer, and even though at this stage I love the Rosengarten best of all, I can easily imagine I will find the others to catch it up in 5 or 10 years! The secondary tastes and layers that emerge from the delightful 2015 Rosengarten Grand Cru build slowly and completely seduce you with rosewater, mango, lime and compelling mineral and briny liquid stones rounding out the program. What stands out in my memory is the exotic floral detail, orange/tangerine notes and faint earthiness that accent this beauty, while brisk and crisp and mouth-wateringly dry, there is a sexy opulent mouth feel, showing the talents and focus of the winemaking, bravo Spreitzer, drink this modern classic over the next 10 to 15 years, best from 2018 to 2030. I think it is wonderfully fitting I end the year 2016 with a Riesling, for me it has been the year of Riesling, especially from the 2015 vintage and from Germany, it has been without question the breakthrough grape of the year!
($47 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive
