2015 Guimaro, Godello “Cepas Viejas” Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain.
Pedro Rodriguez’s gorgeous old vine Godello grown in the Amandi district on steep slopes of sand, slate and granite in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra’s white zone, grown all organic from vines that average close to 60 years old above the Sil river. Pictures of this region are spectacular and remind me of what you’d see on the Rhein or Mosel, more than what most people would expect of Spain and the cool Atlantic climate gives wonderful acidity and vibrant flavors, in fact Guimaro’s Godello has Riesling like mineral infused intensity, but with Chablis like body and flinty detail, I love this stuff and I’m thrilled by what is coming out of Galicia these days, I think it is maybe one of the most exciting wine region these days with stunning Mencia reds and various beautiful whites, including Albarino from Rias Baixas, classy blended whites from the Ribeiro and the Godellos of the Ribeira Sarca and Valdeorras. Producers like Laura Lorenzo (Daterra), Nanclares, Luis Rodriguez. Raul Perez, Veronica Ortega, Carlos Rodrigeuz (Silice) and Guimaro are certainly world class producers that are crafting rocking wines! Guimaro’s 2015 Cepas Viejas is ripe, at 13.5%, with lush layers showing the warmer than usual vintage character, but still full of energy and vivid focus with steely tones and lift showing green apple, mixed citrus and tangy peach fruits with wet shale, leesy (brioche/hazelnut) notes, white flowers, dusty spices and golden fig. This Godello caresses the palate and flows seamlessly, it was made using native yeasts, maceration lasted for 2 days on the skins and it was aged in used burgundy barrels for about 4 months before a light fining and bottling to preserve freshness, while still having richness and structure to age for a decade at least. This impressive white really turns on the charm, it gives white Burgundy style class and pleasure with it’s own terroir uniqueness that makes it even more intriguing, be sure to look for it!
($26 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
