Grapelive: Wine of the Day May 28, 2017

2013 La Colombera, Timorasso “Derthona” Colli Tortonesi, Piedmonte, Italy.
Saved from becoming extinct the rare Timorasso grape, largely do to the efforts of Walter Massa, is thick skinned native varietal that was more used in grappa production that still wines has turned out to be a new darling of the wine world making long lived and highly sought after wines, especially like this La Colombera “Dorthona” from northern Piedmonte in the Colli Tortonesi. The 2013 La Colombera Timorasso Derthona is richly textured with only a hint of oxidation with a feel and likeness to white Hermitage or Roussanne with a medium palate that is almost oily in texture, but still vibrant and crisp with a bullet proof structure, it shows white flowers, lemon, burnt peach, melon and tangerine along with wet shale, hazelnut/almond, anise and orange zest. This intriguing, interesting and entertaining white wine, from a grape that was almost lost to the world back in the eighties, shows unique flavors and will be a thrill to wine enthusiasts in the same way the leesy aged Muscadet or Savagnin from the Jura can be. Pier Carlo Semino, now maybe one of 20 producers that make Timorasso, is in the same league league as Walter Massa, the grapes savior, and should be considered a must try rising star producer in the region, imported by Indigenous Selections. The Derthona was fermented on the skins in stainless at very cool temperature, gently racked off the skins, then aged on it’s lees for 9 months with batonage (light stirring) with no oak being used in this bright greenish/golden hued Timorasso, this is very cool stuff that should drink very nicely for another 5 to 10 years, drink with goat cheeses, pork dishes and or fleshy fish.
($25 Et.) 92 Points, grapelive