Grapelive: Wine of the Day July 6, 2017

2013 Giacomo Borgogno e Figli, Dolcetto d’ Alba, Piedmonte, Italy.
Tasted blind, this amazing Dolcetto by Borgogno, showed so much terroir and complexity at first sip I thought it had to be Barolo! Completely fooled, I followed this wine over an hour or so before it’s true varietal character became more apparent in the glass, but certainly this was an impressive showing for Borgogna’s little Dolcetto d’ Alba and this is unexciting wine with lovely texture and detail, and while it might be hard to find 2013 at this point, I’m sure 2015 and 2016 will be similarly expressive. Founded in 1761, Borgogno is an old school and honest winery with an amazing set of wines, mostly known for their Barolo, and are now crafted by rising star Andrea Farinetti along with Beppe Caviola using traditional practices. Grown in a Barolo site on marl, calcareous and rich in clay soils the Dolcetto is fermented gently with native/natural yeasts with a short stainess steel aging to showcase the purity of fruit and place. I was certain it was raised in big cask, but just stainless was used, it starts with earthy tones, floral notes and light gamey elements with a dark purple/ruby color before filling out on the palate highlighting black cherry, plum, sweet currant and briar/spiced forest berries along with anise, leather and stony notes. After air, the fruity ripe layers and silky mouth feel shines through and the wine settles down into a medium full bodied effort and delivers simple/rustic Dolcetto pleasure that makes it such a charmer, this wine over delivers big time, be sure to look for it and drink it up, it should be enjoyed fresh and with a slight chill. I love this stuff, it’s a great Dolcetto, this and G.D. Vajra’s are two of my favorites, I can’t wait to try the 2015 and 2016 releases too!
($20 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive