2016 Weingut Hexamer, Riesling Kabinett, Meddersheimer Altenberg, Nahe Germany.
Hexamer’s 2016 vintage is near perfection for his house style, bright, vigorous and wonderfully flavorful, especially charming are the Spatlese and in particular the Kabinett level wines, with this Meddersheimer Altenberg, grown on the estate owned steep south-east facing slopes, set on red slate, sandstone and quartzite, being a great little wine. Brilliant in it’s golden sunny hue and drinking with a juicy, but feeling nearly dry and spicy verve showing racy yellow fruits, crushed stones and liquid white roses as well as a light creaminess the only hint at RS, this stainless steel aged Kabinett Riesling from Harald Hexamer is lively and refreshing, it’s a classy and traditionally minded wine that goes to the next level in it’s price category offering a lot of value for the money. On first sip this Meddersheimer Altenberg Kabinett Riesling almost transports you to Condrieu with it’s pretty floral (mixed white flowers) perfume and mineral intensity, the layers of apricot, tangerine, apple, lime and melon sorbet seduces in the mouth and the underlying acidity adds a nice cut along with the wet stones, hints of saline/briny elements and a cooly crisp finish that lingers with just the right amount of sweetness and white plum/nectarine. This fleshy slightly off dry Riesling is more impressive than first impressions would suggest, native ferments, whole cluster pressed and aged only in clean stainless tank, this clear and transparent Riesling is full of detail and wonderful with food, in my case is was fabulous with a spicy tuna Poke Lab bowl, but it is a super summer (Indian summer and fall) sipper and or with cured meats and picnic fare. Hexamer’s last couple of vintages have been fantastic and this is a winery to keep in mind for easy quaffing and subtle seriousness, also look for Harald’s QbA Quartzit Riesling and his volcanoc soil influenced Porphyr Riesling Feinherb, both of which deliver huge bang for the buck.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
