2014 Joyce Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Estate, Carmel Valley, Monterey County.
The Joyce Estate Pinot Noir Vineyard in Carmel Valley was planted back in 1990 and a tiny block of vines quite close to the Carmel Valley Village and is set on dusty/tuft laced with chock rock, it makes for an interesting expression of Pinot, very distinct from Russell Joyce’s other offerings, this especially true of his 2014 Estate, a later release avail only at their tasting room in Carmel Valley. The 2014 is tightly wound, briar laced and still remarkably youthful in mouth feel showing primal grapey freshness with plenty of grip, delivering a firm palate like a young Pommard with black cherry, dried currant, bramble berry, dusty gain tannins and plummy body, lifting acidity and a kiss of sweet oak. With delicate swirling in the glass a pretty spiciness, floral tones and earthy stones come through in this crunchy Pinot Noir with hints of lavender tea, shaved vanilla and tart vine picked forest berries. This wine slowly grew on me and I became charmed by it’s unique terroir character, and even though it’s not as satiny and beautiful as Joyce’s wonderfully textured 2016 releases, this wine impresses in it’s own right for it’s more masculine presence and it’s bright ruby/garnet hue, it is certainly a wine that will benefit from more time in bottle and it’s much more complex with cuisine. It’s not a big wine, but it is chewy and has a forceful nature and will appeal to those that enjoy a more rustic wine with pointy elbows, it would great with tartare, blacked salmon and or grilled pork sausages. There is more potential here, I am thinking another 3 to 5 years will reveal a completely different wine, it will be intriguing to see. One of Monterey’s brightest new stars, Russell Joyce’s current set are not to be missed, in particular and mention here on grapelive.com in prior reviews, the Joyce Gabilan 2016 Pinot is a stunner along with the 2015 Santa Lucia Highlands Syrah, two of my favorites, plus their Gamay/Grenache Rose and dry Riesling are joyous wines.
($45 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive
