2016 Weingut von Winning, Riesling Trocken, Diedesheimer Paradiesgarten, Erste Lage, Pfalz Germany.
Von Winning’s gloriously brisk Paradiesgarten Premier Cru dry Riesling is a killer wine, one of the top values of the year with intense layers of vibrant fruit, mineral tones, lifting acidity and powerful natural extract, making this a serious offering that is very close to Grosses Gewachs in style, substance and quality. Von Winning’s 2016 dry Riesling lineup is a stellar set of wines, following their mind blowing and exotic 2015’s, these 2016 are more elegant, structured and classic Pfalz, both vintages will certainly be legends and should not be missed, especially in the 2016 set I recommend this Diedesheimer Paradiesgarten 1er Cru, as well as the Grand Crus Kalkofen, Pechstein and the world’s most expensive Riesling vineyard Kirchenstuck in particular for collectors. Von Winning is really a unique treasure in the Pfalz, they are inspired by the best wines of Burgundy and with their dry and rich feel they do have that character, Stephan Attman and his team even farm their Riesling from historic plots in Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg like they do in the Cote d’Or, they practice organic farming and in the cellar they use plenty of oak and native ferments in 500ml French barrels, everything is gravity flow and the handling is extremely gentile and careful, the wine spends and extended period on it’s lees, which delivers amazing texture and mouth feel without losing the vitality you’d expect from Riesling. The Pfalz is a mostly limestone terroir, but this Paradiesgarten has loess, loam and red sandstone at it’s core which adds to the complexity and gives plenty of fresh yellow fruit on the palate, this 2016 version has a Premier Cru Chablis like soul with a steely essence and a dusting of saline, chalk dust and flinty spices, it’s tightly wound, but opens nicely with subtle brioche, expansion exceeds expectations in this vigorous wine revealing lemon/lime, kiwi, tangerine, salty brine, wet stones, tart apricot, verbena, green apple skin, liquid mineral, white flowers, thai basil, white cherry along with lingering peach, mango, rosewater and faint among oil. This is a crisp Riesling with dynamic energy and tangy fresh detail, it will go ages and has an inner grace and charm that thrills and seduces with every sip, it give perfect insight into the house style and is a gateway to von Winning’s top Cru Grosses Gewachs. Von Winning makes some of the world’s great white wines, of course Riesling as you’d assume, but don’t over look their Sauvignon Blanc, it’s a game changer for this varietal, over the last decade this estate has rocketed to the very top echelons of producers, if you haven’t had von Winning you are missing out! Imported by Riesling guru Terry Theise and Skurnik Wines, von Winning continues to amaze with every new vintage, I’m very grateful to von Winning’s Andreas Hutwohl for his patience and kindness for showing me his wines, the added insights and clarity of thought comes from his knowledge and passion, thanks my friend. The 2016 Paradiesgarten should be available now in most markets, be sure to get it while you can, it’s a do not miss wine, drink this beauty over the next decade, it’s an impressive terroir driven Riesling that kicks ass for the price!
($32 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
