2016 Nanclares y Prieto Viticultores, Albarino “Paraje Mina” Vino Branco, Rias Baixas, Galicia Spain.
What a crazy good wine this is from Silvia Prieto and Alberto Nanclares at Nanclares y Prieto Viticultores, it’s a single parcel Albarino (Parade Mina) cuvee that is half inox (stainless tank) and half used French oak from clear, no skins, juice ferments using native yeasts, aged 10 months, which in the case of this 2016 results in a vivid and steely wine that reminds me a lot of a Montee de Tonnerre Premier Cru Chablis! The nose is flinty with hints of almonds and briny sea shore with a touch of citrus before leading to a racy and saline palate of green apple, lemon/lime and wild peach fruits along with a touch of grilled fennel, minty herb, wet stones and melon rind. It’s greenish/golden pale hue hints to this saline and acid driven white that sizzles with pulsing energy, it’s brisk tone and dusty dryness hides this wine’s textural quality until air unleashes it’s mouth feel and more seductive nature allowing a bit more body to show through as well as length, with a touch of wood and lees that add subtle smoke, hazelnut and nutmeg. Wow, this is impressive Albarino, though certainly you’d much more generously rewarded to have this with cuisine, especially oysters, sardines, grilled octopus and or mussels. This is an exceptional regional expression that offers a vibrant thrill, Nanclares’ 2016 are wonderful wines and this one in particular is well worth searching out. Silvia and Alberto are making some exciting wines, imported by Jose Pastor Selections, Nanclares y Prieto is one of Rias Baixas’ best producers, these, salty/ocean influenced, are special wines, passionate, traditional and clearly focused that showcase pride of place(terroir), do not miss them.
($39 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
