2011 Weingut Leitz, Riesling Trocken, Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg “Ehrenfels” Rheingau Germany.
The Leitz 2011 Trocken Schlossberg Ehrenfels is really a (pre Leitz VDP labeling) Grosses Gewachs and it’s pedigree shows, this under the radar bottling is amazingly pure and terroir driven, racy and mineral focused, but with dense extract and leesy class that provides a Puligny like mouthfeel and textural beauty. The Grand Cru (Grosse Lage) Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg is one of the world’s absolute best vineyards and it’s stunningly picturesque, it is one of my favorite places on earth, it’s a site of special serenity and energy rising above the Rhein River with it’s ancient castle “Ehrenfels” that gives it it’s name overlooking a narrows that used to be a place where (boat) tolls were paid to pass, but it’s the vines that are the real historic interest hanging on to the steep slate hillsides. Leitz’s plot and parcels here are arguably the best with direct southern exposure and with the most intense slopes, making for incredible intensity in the wines, and this gorgeous 2011 is really blossoming in the bottle and drinking amazing right now. My two extended visits to the Rheingau have had lengthy hikes up here, it’s almost perfectly between old town Rudesheim and Assmannshausen, and even in the rain it’s a must when visiting the region, and it’s right across the Rhein from where the Nahe meets up giving a view up the western part and vineyards past Bingen. Johannes Leitz, one of Germany’s best wine producers, loves purity of form, he prefers extra clear musts and cold/fresh ferments, and while the top crus get aging in stuckfass, he uses lots of glistening stainless steel vats, his wines are full of energy, charm and try to highlight each vineyard site, this is especially true in the Rudesheimer Berg Crus, each have their own personality and it’s almost impossible to pick a favorite between them, the Roseneck, Kaisersteinfels Terressen and (this) Schlossberg all offer a unique expression, like Puligny, Chassagne and Meursault do. The 2011 Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg “Ehrenfels” Trocken, which was happily drunk with fresh sushi, really got my attention for it’s depth and richness while being so dynamic and vibrant with perfect pleasure and tension, it flowed across the palate with beautiful texture showing a lovely white flowers and rose petal perfume balanced up with a nice mouth watering salinity and flintiness with lime, green apple, lemon curd, white fig and almond notes along with steely mineral, brioche, peach pit, apricot flesh and river stones. With air the body gains and it rivals an aged Burgundy for impact and grace, without losing it’s Riesling quality and sense of place, it’s as mentioned an under the radar wine and vintage that I wish I had more of! Drink now and for the next 5 to 7 years, it is a white wine that even appeals to red wine drinkers, it’s something you should always keep a eye out for, especially since the newer vintages are labeled GG (Grosses Gewachs) an fetch a much higher price!
($39-55 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive (reviewed 5/18/18)
