Grapelive: Wine of the Day August 30, 2018

2016 Weingut Enderle & Moll, Pinot Noir “Liaison” Baden, Germany.
Imported by and for von Boden, the lovely bright and light colored, the all biodynamic Liaison Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir from the Baden region is a vibrant tangy wine. Coming in at 12.5% natural alcohol, this lighter style Pinot impresses for it’s tart crisp character and juicy charms, it’s a fine country style wine that is at it’s best with a slight chill and with food, reminding me of a bit of Brouilly Cru Beaujolais with it’s dynamic acidity and fresh nature. Those that love Jura Trousseau or Poulsard will love this geeky little Pinot, those used to Burgundy or silky lush styles will find these a bit lifted or shocking to the palate with it’s racy red fruits and it’s tart personality. The dominant force here is unripe cherries and wild plum fruits and a bit of herbal strawberry character along with brisk minerality, and absolutely no wood influence present. Sven Enderle and Florian Moll work with very old vines, in fact their vines are among the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Baden, with this Liaison coming from 45 old vines. They go against modern thought and go for a strikingly fresh style and use old wood, interesting they get 5 year old Domaine Dujac barrels. This dynamic Germany Pinot is a fun contrast to the more serious (richer/riper) versions of spatburgunder like those of Frederick Becker in the Pfalz and or Meyer-Nakel in the Ahr which are much more impressive in structure and depth. You can see this wine getting a cult Somm following in the USA if it doesn’t already, already quite famous in Europe, and while I admire it and enjoyed this Enderle and Moll Liaison Pinot Noir as an intellectual experience, I wouldn’t except it to be a real impressive crowd pleaser. This tight and lean profile lends itself to a slight refreshing chill and certainly would be better with food to show it’s best, it’s a wine for the weirdly curious and should be enjoyed young, drink over the next 2 to 3 years.
($35 Est.) 87 Points, grapelive