Grapelive: Wine of the Day October 8, 2018

2017 Julien Sunier, Fleurie, Cru Beaujolais, France.
Wonderfully expressive the 2017 Julien Sunier Fleurie is a beauty with tons of terroir and varietal character showing the soil and heightened perfume you find in this distinct Cru, this is a vintage of amazing purity and delicate details with bright acidity and dark fruits, much more interesting than some of the awkward 2016 versions, this is a year to get Sunier! The surfing fanatic and Dijon-born Julien Sunier started his wine adventure by working in the famed Christophe Roumier’s vineyards and cellar near Chambolle-Musigny in Burgundy, before riding waves and making wine from New Zealand to California before finding a home in France’s Beaujolais region. Seemingly influenced by a new generation of winemakers in the region, Sunier’s wines have a similar appeal to those of Lapierre, Foillard, Dutraive and others that are working in natural/organic methods with almost no intervention or additions using most ancient parcels of Gamay, he uses carbonic maceration and ages in used ex-Burgundy barrels. Julien spent five years managing a large negociant in Beaujolais, he spent time with growers in all of the 10 Cru Beaujolais villages getting an real appreciation for these amazing sites. He credits this work with providing him with insights, passion of place and an invaluable understanding of the various micro-climates and micro terroirs throughout the region. The 2017 Fleurie by Sunier is crafted using indigenous yeast fermentation(s) in concrete vats, whole cluster/carbonic, at low temperatures then slowly pressed after the must is dry using an old Burgundy press, after which the wine was raised in 300L Futs (neutral French oak casks) for just less than year. The Sunier Fleurie comes from a high elevation parcel on a steep slope that was planted back in the 1960’s set on the Cru Fleurie zone’s signature pink granite soils which gives the wine it’s deep perfume and sharp details as well as it’s mineral tones, with this 2017 really highlighting this site’s unique character. Bright and fresh this Fleurie pushes out juicy blackberry, cherry, plum, strawberry fruits and liquid floral elements with a nice bite of acidity, herbal notes and a stony flinty chalky sense. Lovely Gamay from start to finish, lingering with a hint of violetette, walnut and racy currant, this light to medium bodied wine offers more than expected and is remarkably pleasing, Sunier’s 2017’s are very alluring offerings, especially this one, drink over the next 3 to 5 years.
($38 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive