2015 Tablas Creek, Roussanne, Adelaida District, Paso Robles.
The glorious and pale golden/yellow hued Beaucastel clone Roussanne from Tablas Creek shows a remarkable family resemblance with its beautiful rich detail and intensity, while strikingly dense and full bodied it is still energetic, lively and finely balanced, somewhat intriguing it is that it almost feels more restrained than its old world cousins. Usually found as a significant player in Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc and Hermitage Blanc, Roussanne is less often found as a single varietal wine, though with the exception being as mentioned the Chateau de Beaucastel Old Vine (100% Roussanne) Chateauneuf du Pape white (one of the Rhone’s best whites), and in California there are very few pure Roussanne bottlings, but there are some absolutely gorgeous examples, most notably wines by Alban, Stolpman, L’Aventure (though I believe they have now changed to a blend), Truchard and this Tablas Creek version. As to why there are not more, it is known that Roussanne is tricky and fickle grape and there is a more recent concern that the vines are prone to conditions that make it less attractive to growers, and winemakers have seemed to have largely given up on it, preferring other Rhone whites more increasingly, such as Grenache Blanc. Tablas notes, Roussanne grapes are susceptible to powdery mildew and rot, and the vine is a shy and erratic producer even under ideal conditions, and of the five white Rhône varietals that they grow at Tablas Creek, Roussanne is generally the latest-ripening. In addition, it is prone to shutting down toward the end of harvest, as well as to shatter and uneven yields. I am a fan of Roussanne and think it is absolutely fascinating and expressive with a thrilling weighty mouth feel, it has a wildly hedonistic oily texture when barrel fermented, and this Tablas Creek Roussanne offers deep layers and a complexity of flavors. Tablas is very much in the Roussanne camp, even with it’s growing challenges and in the cellar they use a combination of small barrels, large foudres and tank to ferment and raise its version with partial malos to retain acidity and freshness, while allowing the grapes personality to shine through. The nose is slight floral with white blossoms, mineral toned and with a hint of spice and honey leading to a packed opulent palate of nectarine, apricot, pear tart, lemon curd/creme brûlée, tangy crystallized ginger, butterscotch, bitter almond, tropical/pineapple notes as well as honeycomb and a touch of wood, in a flowing round white wine of serious impact, gaining a wet stone chalky element, citrus rind and white anise on the finish. It seems to me that this wine is just coming out of a shy phase and is really starting to express its potential, I can imagine it getting even better with another 3 or 4 years, and it is truly magic with cuisine, especially lobster tail, richer fish dishes and or creamy cheeses. My recent visit to Tablas was highlighted by their amazing set of whites from their Rhone blends to their single varietal offerings, these are wines you should get to know, especially this lush and textual Roussanne, but don’t overlook the Picpoul, Vermentino and the Esprit de Tablas!
($35 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
