2011 Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros, White Burgundy, France.
There are wines that always light up the faces around a table of wine lovers, Grand Cru Chablis is one of them, especially those made by Raveneau, Dauvissat and William Fevre, like this beautiful 2011 from the Bougros cru. One of the seven Grand Cru sites, Bougros, is one that sometimes flies under the radar, with Les Clos and Valmur usually getting more attention, but it can outperform those legends in certain vintages and William Fevre’s is one of the best and most elegant versions. Set within the fabled amphitheater above the village of Chablis and on the Jurassic era soils of this unique Burgundy terroir, Bougros is laced with tiny oyster fossils, marl and Kimmeridgean limestone that gives these wines their amazing mineral and stony essence. Bougros sits to the northwest, just below Les Preuses and is the bookend to Les Clos to the southeast, it’s mostly southern exposure allows near perfect ripening, and make Bougros one of the richer wines of the region, while retaining vital acidity, these are racy wines that fill out on the palate, and I’ve noticed, can do well even in more difficult or less heralded vintages, and that is certainly the case here with this 2011.
The wonderfully rounded 2011 Bougros Grand Cru by Domaine William Fevre is a remarkably textural white with a a creamy mouth feel, but don’t let that form your opinion that this doesn’t have the classic flinty hallmarks, because it does and has plenty verve and vitality that makes this wine standout. It starts with hints of white flowers and citrus before that chalky intensity takes over with subtle fruit layers of lemon, green apple, a hint of honeyed peach along with steely notes as well as a faint trace of wood, wet rock and a crisp saline finish. The palate expands with air, becoming a truly regal and noble Chardonnay in the glass, this 2011 Bougros is poised and impressive from start to finish, it is a glorious treat and kind of a sleeper in the marketplace, where is offers a great value in its class and should drink well for another 3 to 5 years at least.
($70 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive