2017 Nanclares y Prieto, Albabrino “Dandelion” Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain.
The Dandelion cuvee, the freshest and most fruit forward of Nanclares’ Albarino(s) coming from 30 to 60 year old vines near Val do Salnés grown on sand and granite soils, right at sea level with locally historic pergola training. The Dandelion is fermented with native yeast, naturally, in stainless steel with no malo and aged a year on the fine lees, it is unfined and unfiltered allowing the complete capture of every nuance and terroir elements. Nanclares y Prieto, led by the humble and hard working Alberto Nanclares and his youthful and talented partner Silvia Prieto are one of best producers and super stars from the Cambados area of the Rias Baixas region. The Nanclares wines are all made from organic grapes and show the cool Atlantic influences, they even harvest seaweed near by to use as natural vineyard treatments and composting.
This 2017 is wonderfully expressive, vivid and feels ever so slightly sweet fruited with white peach, green apple, lemon sorbet and tangy lime with a subtle saline quality, wet stone as well as a hint orange blossom and wild herbs. As mentioned in prior reviews this version of Nanclares has that zesty pop of natural acidity that allows for a little residual sugar, especially with the all stainless and no malos, making for a wine of crisp detail and mineral charm, but more Kabinett (Think German Mosel Rieslings) style in personality. This Albarino can go with many cuisines as well as being a super Summer refresher, I can see many happy days ahead with this bottling, especially with spicy both shellfish dishes. The more leesy estate offering is much more serious and should never be missed, but this Dandelion is pure joy in the glass, enjoy it over the coming year.
($20 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive