2015 Domaine Jean Fournier, Marsannay “Clos du Roy” Red Burgundy, France.
Dark, earthy, reductive and brambly at first the 2015 Jean Founier single Lieu-Dit Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy slowly opens up on the medium bodied palate and turns into a lovely and slightly rustic Burgundy that given time in the glass delivers a very competent performance, that for the price makes it a stellar value. After the graphite and barnyard notes dim, there is plenty to get excited about here with satiny layers of black cherry, mulberry, plum and spicy vine picked raspberry fruits, mineral tones, tea notes, wilted rose petals and zesty red citrus that adds pop. This is certainly not a Pinot Noir you want to drink without matching cuisine, it really needs help to show it’s depth, food is a must here, but that said, with that right paring you get handed a beautiful wine and it transforms in personality to the point of elation.
From a very successful and dense vintage, Jean Fournier’s Marsannay from the prestigious Lieu-Dit of Clos du Roy delivers a performance that would make you believe this was from a more famous zone in Burgundy, such is the form, density and intensity. Clearly winemaker Laurent Fournier is at the forefront of elevating Marsannay as a wine and as a community, with this 2015 he certainly seems to have accomplished some of that mission. Fournier’s current holdings cover just over 17 hectares of vines with many ranging between 20 and 70 years old and covering the some of Marsannay’s most lauded and coveted sites, including this parcel plot in Clos du Roy, all of which are old clone massale selections. This is an old school style that needs the right setting, but is seriously good and this is a winery to follow, especially in good years and given the time and age to reveal its inner beauty.
($40 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive