2013 Réva, Barolo DOCG, Piedmonte, Italy.
Only a few vintages old, the Réva winery based in Monforte is a new Barolo-focused label headed up by winemaker Gianluca Colombo, and one to check out, I really enjoyed his 2012, but this latest 2013 is even better and a wine that is evolving well in the bottle with a big Nebbiolo personality that really impacts the palate, this is serious stuff. Though the estate has been producing wine since 1867, Colombo basically created a totally new winery after the property was purchased in 2010 and since then his star has been rising quickly with an impressive array of awards and accolades being bestowed upon him already. Réva is located in a small valley between Monforte and Dogliani, and also includes a luxury resort featuring 12 rooms, a swimming pool and even a golf course, and there is a focus on green environment friendly practices and a respect for nature. Colombo adds “Our goal is just to make the top quality possible wines (to make the best Barolo in a classical way) in an organic way. We are certified organic. Our goal is to make the wines that speak all about grape variety, vintage and terroir.”
The 2013 is step up and it shows the vintage’s fullness of fruit and while silken and ripe there’s a serious under current of tannic structure and balance to found showing great detail and finessed winemaking. Colombo uses long and cool fermentations using native yeasts and traditional aging in large casks, but everything is gorgeously transparent and the flavors are crisply clean with layers of black cherry, damson plum, wild raspberry and blood orange fruits along with hints of cedar, truffle, minty herb, salted black licorice, leather and dried flowers, all of which scream Nebbiolo and terroir. Air brings out an exciting play between strawberry jam and slightly youthfully aggressive savory tones that fade nicely into the background with food, but highlight the wines aging potential. The lingering fruit, earth, spice, mineral and sticky lavender is very intriguing as well, there is a lot to enjoy and admire here for Barolo fans, it looks set for a fine future, though it drinks perfectly well (now) with robust cuisine.
($60 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive