Grapelive Wine of the Week
By Kerry Winslow
2009 Selbach-Oster Riesling “Anrecht” Zeltinger Himmelreich, Mosel, Germany.
This single block Riesling is Auslese weight and textured, but is so well balanced it doesn’t feel overly sweet in fact it shows such depth and complexity the sugar level doesn’t matter much. This wine should gain from a few years in the cellar, though so far I haven’t been able to not open the two bottles I’ve bought, this wine is that good. The nose is minerally and citrus blossoms with hints of jasmine and bacon before a lush palate of apple, apricot, peach and loads of tropical fruits. Rocky minerals and tangy acid keeps things focused and balanced, there is slate like spicy notes too. There are background touches of honey, petrol, verbena and rose oil. This beautiful and stellar Riesling stands alone, but it does remind me of a Condrieu for exotic style and of a Grand Cru Burgundy for class, not meaning to take away anything from the greatness of German Riesling, it is just that this wine rises above perception while being true to its terroir.
($35 Est.) 95-96 Points, grapelive
Available at www.sfwtc.com ($29.95)