2008 Schlossgut Diel, Riesling Sekt Brut Nature, Goldloch, Sparkling Wine, Nahe Germany.
One of the world’s absolute best single vineyard sparkling wines in the world, the Schlossgut Diel’s Goldloch Brut Nature, rivals Krug’s top vintage Champagne(s) including the 1988 Clos Le Mesnil, which was previously one of my best ever bubblies, made from 100% Riesling the Diel Sekt was extended lees aged and is a non dosage beauty. The historic Schlossgut Diel, one of the first estates in Germany to promote a drier style Riesling around the world and makers of some of the greatest Grosses Gewachs from their vines in the lower Nahe. The winery, based in the Burg Layen castle near Dorsheim, was purchased by Diel family in 1802 after Napoleon’s troops were vanquished from the region, but it really gained attention under current owner Armin Diel and now with his daughter Caroline Diel making the wines, it never has been better. Caroline, who has even done a winemaking stint at the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, is one of the world’s best vignerons and her Rieslings and her Pinot Noir are outstanding wines. A lot has deservingly been written about Schlossgut Diel’s wines and Caroline’s talent in the vineyards and in the cellar, but these sparkling wines should not be overlooked, especially the amazing single vineyard Goldloch Brut Nature, I visited the estate in 2016 and fell in love with them and these latest offerings are fantastic.
Coming from the steep Grand Cru (VDP Grosse Lage) Goldloch, set on gravel soils faces the east and is one of the most difficult parcels to farm in the Nahe, but the hard work pays off, in particular when Caroline gets her hands on these grapes. This Brut Nature is unbelievably deep with incredible depth of flavors, vitality and length with layer upon layer of flavors and the texture is opulent without being flabby, this is nearly a perfect Champagne style sparkler. There is classic brioche, leesy/yeasty notes, dried apricots, lemon curd, golden fig, brilliant mineral tones and a caressing energy from the small bubbles, this Brut Nature Sekt gains and changes with every exciting sip, it’s a luxurious bubbly that you need to experience. Caroline does a, as she notes, a gentle whole berry pressing that is followed by spontaneous “Sponti” indigenous yeast fermentation and with the mentioned extended lees aging in stainless steel tanks. The winery adds that after filtration and tirage, a secondary fermentation begins inside the bottle, then the wine is then left on the lees for an additional 50 months to develop that greater complexity and its characteristic elegant bubbles or refined and sophisticated mouse. This exotic and lightly perfumed Riesling Goldloch Brut Nature drinks heavenly, it is serious as a wine and can and should be celebrated, not just poured at one, it is a sparkling that revels in food pairings, it goes fabulously with crab dishes and even more robust cuisine, it is a stunning bottle, not to be missed!
($90 Est.) 98 Points, grapelive