2010 Booker, White Paso Robles.
Eric and Lisa Jensen’s Booker Winery is one of the most sought after Paso producers these days, right up there with Saxum, L’Aventure and Linne Calodo, with a great set of reds made from mostly Syrah and Grenache on their 72 acre estate on the favored westside of Paso. Eric worked with both Justin Smith of Saxum and Stephan Asseo of L’Aventure and their influence is apparent in the Booker wines much to their benefit, as they reveal beautiful textural richness and intensity. The Jensen’s also make this rare white cuvee, subtly called “White” and is made up of primarily Roussanne, but in this vintage it has about 25% Viognier, it is an unfiltered Cal Rhone style wine that reminds me of Chateau de Beaucastel, Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, which is high praise, as that is one of my all time favorite wines. This dynamic white starts with a bouquet that changes constantly in the glass with honeysuckle, orange and lemon marmalade, kiwi and a hint of smoke, but with air and a few swirls a more telling nose develops with bacon fat and licorice coming through along with a clarified butter creaminess while the palate has intense Roussanne power and force with apricot, stony notes, pear and exotic tropical notes leading the way along with tangerine, anise and tangy peach pit. The fruit is forward and mouth-filling giving the impression of a massive body, but it has good acidic grip and the wine never gets flabby or dull. Touches of soft french wood and a long finish make complete the amazing experience found in this wine, and it should develop more over the next 3-5 years.
($50 Est.) 92+ Points, grapelive
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