2011Domaine Robert-Denogent, Pouilly-Fuisse, Vieilles Vignes “La Croix” White Burgundy, France.
Ever since the 2004 vintage, I’ve been a huge fan of Robert-Denogent, these wines are some of the best white Burgundy for the money out there, and it is hard to imagine a better set of Pouilly-Fuisse or Saint-Veran Chardonnay than the these from Domaine Robert-Denogent, these are fantastic, pure and intense wines that are completely spellbinding. The latest release from 2011 are a tad forward, but oh my are they good, especially the 2011 La Criox Pouilly-Fuisse old vines, this wine easily compares to Puligny or Chassange’s best, no question. The density, complexity and presence of these Denogent wines is amazing and while not cheap by Maconnais standards, these wines offer a great value for what you get in the bottle, it is easy to see why Kermit Lynch imports can’t keep these whines in stock and why they have become an important wine list wine at some of the finest dinning places around the country. The 2011 Domaine Robert-Denogent Pouilly-Fuisse La Croix Vieilles Vignes starts with white flowers, citrus, mineral spice, matchstick and peach, leading to a palate of apple, lemon and pear fruits with hazelnuts, river stones, fig and a hint of butterscotch. There is plenty of layered texture and charm here, and there is a good underlying acidity keeping these taught and fresh throughout, this is a rich wine, but one of good balance and class. Drink this beauty over the next 3-5 years, but it should prove interesting at the 10 year mark as well, it will be a rewarding journey to follow I’m sure.
($38 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($34.95)