N.V. Hure Freres, Extra Brut Reserve Champagne, a Ludes, France.
This hand-crafted Champagne is a serve and lean Extra Brut with stunning definition and lift, with wonderful sense of style and character driven by the high percentage of Pinot Meunier, about 45% along with Pinot Noir and some Chardonnay to fill the wine out and give density. The Here Freres Extra Brut Reserve starts with bright citrus, energy filled mousse that feels alive, but refined and opens up with hints of brioche, hazelnuts, lemon and unripe apples along with hints of mineral, melon, fig and yeasty essence. This clear and vivid bubbly is a beautifully judged sparkler, but being so austere and dry with make it more for the enthusiast, the wine geek and the ultra dedicated Champagne drink rather than the more mainstream crowd, though it did win some fans at a recent tasting that might not have otherwise even bothered to even buy Champagne even on special occasions. This wine would be great with oysters and meals, it is a food wine and less a celebration bottle, though that said I would like it anytime and I’m the serious Champagne nuts would too. This lively champers has unique qualities, plenty of complexity and with air fills out and becomes most pleasing and compelling, I will certainly be adding a few bottles to my personal stash.
($56 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($54.95)