2012 M. Lapierre, Morgon, Cru Beaujolais, France.
One of the most sought after wines in the world, and who’d have thought, an old vine Gamay would attract so much attention, the Lapierre Morgon is an exciting red that never disappoints with it’s hedonistic and old world charms. This is the cuvee N, no sulphur, made for Kermit Lynch, and one of Natural Wines greatest success stories, though most agree it does need extra care and good cellaring, meaning no shock or exposure to temp changes to be at it’s best, and while some hardy souls put it away to age, it is best to drink this wine young and at it’s freshest. I have myself hid a few bottles away and found no ill effects, and in fact a couple of years age brought out some finer details and delivered a stunning wine, though this is a wine that is certainly enjoyed in it’s youth. While most people hail the 2009 vintage, a major moment in Beaujolais history, I find I like the more subtle years, even off years in Morgon, like 2007 and especially what I’m seeing of the 2012 wines, with this new Lapierre really making a grand impression on me, this is a wonderful wine of intensity, color and life. The latest Lapierre Morgon, coming in at 12.5%, is delightful and entertaining with classic blackberry, plum, walnut oil and tart cherry layers on the medium weight palate, the dark purple hue is impressive in the glass and the acidity is nicely judged, this year’s Lapierre is much more refined, polished and has ripe tannins, good length and drinks fantastic. The wine opens up to reveal deeper flavors with air and more complexity with hints of candied red citrus, kirsch, mineral, wild herbs and fig, this is pure Gamay at it’s best, the brave might set some in the cellar for a few years, but the impatient will drink this up and quick.
($35 Est..) 93 Points, grapelive
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