2012 von Winning, Riesling, Kalkofen Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz Germany.
The von Winning star has risen and these 2012 wines are masterpieces, without question they are wildly exotic and flamboyant, but they are stunningly gorgeous, they remind of great Burgundy, especially the Grand Cru or Grosses Gewachs. The seriously hedonistic Kalkofen has intense wood and tropical presence, it is a powerful example of rich and dry Riesling that is stylistically unique among it’s peers, and it’s a very non traditional form, it takes a bit of getting used to, though one taste will be mind altering, and transformative, this is amazing wine. Stephan Attmann is a genius and his total focus and soul go into his wines, you can be sure of that and these wines are no compromise efforts that set new standards for Riesling. The sample I tasted in January of 2014 was a barrel selection of the GG Kalkofen, this Grand Cru Riesling from near Deidesheim in the Pfalz is a wonder to behold with a nose of leesy, smoky and perfumed elements, it shows orange, vanilla and lemon curd leading to a palate of dense fruit, juicy acidity and lavish texture and glorious length with banana, papaya, kiwi and apple fruits leading the way along with steely mineral, river stones, savory/sea shore notes, white tea and chalky extract. The wine really is sexy, vivid and packed with complexity, and with air the mouth feel getting even more impressive and full, while the driving core of excitement never fades, this wine is lush and generous, but remains lively and Riesling expressive. There is so much happening it is truly hard to get it all down, so I will just finish by saying the von Winning Kalkofen Grosses Gewachs is one of the great wines of the vintage and while not an easy option on the wallet, it surly is a terrific value for the quality and class you get in the bottle. The von Winning wines are mostly unfined and unfiltered, raised in cask and fermented using all native/natural yeasts in the Grand Cru selections, these are labors of love and shine a new glow on this noble grape, these are not to miss wines. The Kalkofen GG will be legendary and it will certainly have a long cellar life, drink this from 2016-2030.
($85 Est.) 96 Points, grapelive
