1998 Weingut Kruger-Rumpf, Riesling, Dorsheimer Burgberg, Spatlese, Nahe Germany.
I recently tasted through the up coming releases from Georg Rumpf, the 2013 vintage of which I will be writing more about shortly and of which you should look for when they are available this Fall of 2014, so it was interesting to get a chance to taste back a few years and wow, this 1998 is drinking wonderfully. The Kruger-Rumpf Dorsheimer Burgberg Spatlese is mature, richly flavored and full of vigor with loads of sex appeal and mineral complexity, it’s a white wine that gives the same thought provoking pleasures as a fine Red Burgundy does, this is suburb Riesling and it doesn’t feel at this point as sweet as Spatlese, decedent yes, but sublimely balanced. No wonder Terry Theise picked up this winery all those years ago, this wine is pure class and gives insight on how Kruger-Rumpf wines will age, for sure it would be a great idea to grab some of their 2011, 2012 and 2013 and chuck them in the cellar, that would be a very sound investment. The 1998 starts with orange rind, dried apricot and waxy rose petals leading to a palate of verbena, lemon oil, peach and lime sorbet along with river stones, flinty dust, a hint of mint tea, petrol fumes and saline notes. With air you find a more tropical side and while there is an expansion in the mouth and density, there still is vibrancy and brightness throughout, this is seductive stuff and ever-changing in the glass from minute to minute with finally a honeycomb, paraffin, bitter almond, golden apple and fig emerging subtly on the glorious finish. When I last checked the importer still had this beauty available, but in case you don’t find any, get some of the new vintages they are lovely too, drink the 1998 from 2014 to 2021.
($48 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($43.95)