n.v. Suenen, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne, A Cremant, France.
The very young Aurelien Suenen is a rising star in Champagne, he is really crafting some magnificent estate sparkling wines, his small family house in A Cremant is all in Grand Cru sites with vines in chalky limestone and all the plots are farmed with great care and organic, I understand he practices biodynamic methods. Like some of the modern stars of estate grown Champagne he believes the Champagne is made in the vineyard and he wants to showcase it’s unique character and make terroir Champagne, he has been helped along the way by amazing people, inspired by Anselme Selosse, since his father died in 2009, and he was left as the heir to his family’s legacy and history. His latest releases are beautifully made and very detailed, I am very taken with these Suenen Champagnes, these are very impressive, especially this glorious, yeasty, super dry and vidid Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs which is vigorous and has lovely flavors, density and verve. Suenen uses native yeasts in some lots, small yields in the vineyards and this bubbly spends 36 months on it’s lees, and he does use some wood and enameled tuns, instead of all stainless to allow more layers and texture. The Extra Brut is really energy filled Champagne with lemon, apple and chalky mineral/stony elements, brioche, hazelnuts, earth, brine, tropical exotic notes and orange blossom. This is gorgeous hand crafted artisan stuff and a winery to watch, drink this beauty over the next 5 to 7 years.
($70 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
