2007 Weingut von Hovel, Riesling, Spatlese “Scharzhofberg” Saar (Mosel) Germany.
From the Saar area near the Mosel, von Hovel is one of Germany’s most acclaimed estates, owned by Eberhard von Kunow a sixth generation winegrower, located in Oberemmeler, Konz. The reins of winemaking is now in the hands of Maximilian von Kunow and he has a great palate of historic vines to craft his wines, this estate has been around since Monks constructed the cellar in the 12th century on the Saar River near the confluence of the Mosel. The famed Scharzhofberg is a site that produces denser and fuller flavored Riesling making a top site for Kabinett and especially good for Spatlese with heavy soils of weathered slate on a stony hillside. The 2007 von Hovel is rich and deep highlighting the richness of this near perfect vintage in the Saar and Mosel region, but as always the von Hovel shows finesse and balance, all ready showing fine detail and serious concentration, this wine has ages of life ahead. Starting with honeyed peach, candied pineapple, quince, apple and apricot the 2007 Scharzhofberg by von Hovel has a forceful palate and lavish feel, plus there is loads of mineral and stony notes with hints of earth, golden figs, brine, key lime and kiwi. A lingering white tea and tropical essence add to the pleasures delivered in this stunning, golden hued Riesling, this is an impressive showing and I would have a very hard time to keep my hands of this gorgeous Riesling that shows a deft focus and class, hiding the overt sweetness, while being a lavish and hedonistic. Drink this wine over the next 10 to 12 years, and be sure to check out young and old vintages of von Hovel, these are lovely examples of pure terroir driven Rieslings.
($35 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($31.95)