2012 Francois Carillon, Bourgogne Aligote, White Burgundy, France.
Aligote is the other white Burgundy, usually quickly forgotten and while sometime pleasant, is rarely given much attention, even by me. Thankfully, I was at Oakland’s Bay Grape while Stevie was giving her Sunday wine class, this week was White Burgundy, she had picked out a killer lineup of offerings, and her husband, ex Michael Mina Somm, Josiah sampled me on this fabulous Carillon Aligote, if you are ever in Oakland head down to Grand Ave and check out Bay Grape, it is a great place to shop or pop a bottle with friends. The 2012 Francois Carillon Aligote is one of the best and most interesting versions of this varietal I’ve come across in a long time, up there with Ramonet and de Villiane, and it held my attention with wonderful depth and density, being both clear and vivid plus having a rich creamy round feel on the palate, I’m certain the small yields and vintage gives this wine it’s character, but then again it is grown in one of the world’s great terrors, Puligny-Montrachet. Carillon’s other wines from this vintage certainly must be out of this world, and I’d make a mental note to score a few bottles of his Chardonnay based wines too. The Aligote starts with citrus, with lemon/lime and gathers pear and apple notes along with a touch of butterscotch and creme, it seems simple and direct, but there’s wonderful texture and finesse with extra complexity lingering on the finish with hints of nutmeg, fig and clove. I would not count on too much aging potential, but I like the concentration and lovely mouth-feel now, this is serious good Aligote, drink from 2014 to 2017.
($25 Est.) 92+ Points, grapelive
