1994 Dunn, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley. (Magnum 1.5L)
Even sucking down the dregs of a Magnum that had been open the night before the Dunn 1994 Howell Mountain was stunning and seemingly at it’s peak, I would highly suggest if you have 1991, 1992, 1993 or this 1994 Dunn in your cellar you start popping corks, I think it is time on these great wines. I’m grateful to John Fluhmann, a client with a soft spot for Bordeaux and classic Napa Cabs, he bought this Mag in and let myself and a colleague finish it off, that was kind and very helpful for us to see where this wine was at, it was also good as we both are Dunn fans and this was splendid stuff and wonderfully open and enjoyable. These early nineties Dunn’s are sublime, and at 13% or under at times, they are very Bordeaux like and intensely flavored with lots of dark fruit, tannin and glorious length. This 1994, a great vintage, shows maturity now, at year 20, and everything there is here is ready to go and wonderfully displayed at this point. The nose is floral, mineral driven with spice, cedar and even a hint of game leading to a palate of black and red currants, minty herbs, plum, blackberry, creme de cassis, dried flowers, leather and cherry, along with licorice, loamy/earth stones and tobacco/cigar wrapper. There is a hint of smoky wood, but everything is folded together nicely, it almost tastes like Haut-Brion mixed with Beychevelle it has the mineral essence of Pessac along with a bit of tar, clay tang of the outer Medoc, but still a fruit driven Napa wine of great detail and class, hats off to Randy Dunn, this wine is a glorious legacy, drink now through 2018. This is a brilliant Cabernet Sauvignon, I love these mature Howell Mountain wines, this is sublime, I hope I get a few more chances to enjoy these great California wines, Dunn, Ridge and Diamond Creek all rival the world’s best, especially the early nineties offerings, which still can be found and not at terrible prices, in fact some or below current release prices of top wineries.
($300+ Est. Magnum, $100-200 in 750ml Est.) 95 Points, grapelive
