2012 Beaux Freres, Pinot Noir “Upper Terrace” Beaux Freres Vineyard Estate, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon.
The unfined and unfiltered Upper Terrace from Mike Etzel of Beaux Freres is one of Oregon’s most exotic and rare Pinots, I would compare it to Burgundy’s Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, it is dark, richly flavored and full of intensity and vitality, and 2012 is a blockbuster vintage. The Upper Terrace, farmed by biodynamic practices and using a mix of clones is a gorgeous and majestic Pinot Noir, it reminds me of the AF Gros and Anne Gros wines and especially their 2012 Vosne Romanee and Clos Vougeot bottlings (which I have just tasted as well) with layer after layer of lavish fruit and mocha notes, but this is still an infant and will need a few years in the cellar to really show itself in all it’s glory, be patient with this one and the rewards should be amazing. The latest and best Beaux Freres starts with a deep ruby hue, a hint of violets, smoke and sweet spices leading to a full palate of blackberry, plum and dark cherry fruits along with a touch of graphite, crushed stones, earth and vanilla, plus cedar, pepper and a finish that lingers with blueberry, strawberry and tangy currants. The texture is lush, but with some firm tannins and underlying acidity in this chocolatey and hedonistic that still needs to shed it’s baby fat and integrate it’s wood, though with air reveals wonderful Pinot fruit purity and detail, this is a monumental wine in the making, it will be great to taste it in ten years time, drink from 2018 to 2026.
($100 Est.) 95+ Points, grapelive
