2012 Alberto Nanclares, Albarino, Salnes, Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain.
This is the single most thrilling Albarino I’ve ever tasted, period. Alberto Nanclares has crafted a masterpiece with his tiny production Albarino Salnes, this wine is crystal clear, persistent and riveting with Riesling like focus and drive and wonderful leesy depth that gives rich detail but never feels heavy, this is euphoric white wine with sublime class and excitement from start to finish. The 2012 Nanclares Salnes starts with hints of white flowers, liquid mineral and a mix of wild herbs and spices with a salty kick leading to a pure and crispy palate of lemon/lime, green apple, white peach, melon and tangy tangerine fruits, cool river stones, brine and lemongrass/verbena. This wine gives the impression of weight with a hint of yeast/brioche, but is vivid, vibrant and eye popping, it has ripe and round textural element along with a austere briskness, it plays with you and is amazingly well judged, I was spellbound by this glorious effort, and though it will be insanely difficult to find, I highly recommend locating some and cherishing it! Great Albarino is like great dry German Riesling, not much gets exported, as the locals drink it up, though some does in both cases make to us here and we are grateful and eager for more, especially wines like this one from Alberto Nanclares. At 12.5% Alcohol and with wonderful acidity this is a fantastic food and summer wine, although not cheap, it is worth every penny and offers stunning quality and comes in at a price that most people with happily pay for a Bandol Rose, like Tempier, so again, it is a fair option for the (special) warm Spring and Summer days ahead, drink this beautiful Albarino from 2015 to 2020.
($36 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
