Grapelive: Wine of the Day June 26, 2015

2014SelbachSchmitt2014 Weingut Selbach-Oster, Riesling “Schmitt” Zeltinger Schlossberg, Mosel Germany.
The brilliant and exotic Schmitt comes from the steep slate hill above the church, set back from the Mosel, there is great southern exposure here and less affected by noble rot, a big plus in 2014, it allowed these rich and lush wine to remain crystalline and focused, this is one of the great wines of the vintage! Johannes Selbach’s top wines are not Trocken/Grosses Gewachs, there are single block wines from Cru sites, they are also heavy weighted, dense and medium sweet, but it is not about the sugar, it is all about the terroir and overall balance, these are wines of hedonism, power, textural pleasure and vitality, especially the Schmitt in 2014, it explores the boundaries of perfection in a fantastically difficult vintage. The was a savage thinning of the crop and a tiny window to get the grapes in to make this masterpiece from the old vines at Zeltinger Schlossberg, it is truly amazing with all the problems and heartbreak endured here that a wine of this quality and gorgeous detail managed to happen at all, there are some areas that were wiped out by rot, flies and other unfortunate conditions during the growing season in 2014, but somehow this block come through and made one of the most glorious Riesling wines of the year. The 2014 Schmitt by Selbach-Oster starts with a sweet perfume, the 2014 wines across the board are wonderfully aromatic with heady bouquets, this wine shows white roses, dripping jasmine, hints of gardenia and tropical essences that lead to a full bodied, Auslese weight palate with apricot, green apple, lime and mango fruits leading the way along with a mix of spicy mineral and flinty stones, briny sea shore notes, soft honey decadence, creamy verbena and sweet peach flesh. The finish carries over the core of fruit and richness, but there is a burst of dynamic acidity and vibrancy, this is not a flabby wine and you are left with a dreamy/haunting impression with lingering tangerine sorbet, crushed stone and wet steeliness, this is fabulous Riesling and one you’ll want in the cellar, this has 100 Point potential and it will also drink well young, it already has poise and elegance, but should last two or three decades! This sexy Riesling will be released sometime this fall and I highly recommend securing it when it comes, this is special stuff, drink from 2016 to 2028, and don’t be afraid of it’s sugar levels, it drinks like a lavish Grand Cru Corton-Charlemagne and is a spectacular wine from Selbach-Oster!
($52 Est.) 95+ Points, grapelive