Grapelive: Wine of the Day August 20, 2015

2013DugatPyCoeur2013 Domaine Dugat-Py, Gevrey-Chambertin “Cuvee Coeur de Roy” Tres Vieilles Vignes, Red Burgundy, France.
Bernard Dugat-Py’s stunningly gorgeous Gevrey Coeur de Roy 2013 is one of the most moving and captivating Pinots I’ve tried all year, but it comes at a hefty cost, in fact it comes in at a Grand Cru price, and that is tough to shallow, even though I absolutely admire and adore the quality and depth here, it is truly a great wine. The 2013 Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Coeur de Roy old vines is a pure and unfiltered Burgundy with silken layers and deep fruit complexity, it is nobility and elegance in the glass with an enticing and subtle perfume, a fairly dark hue of ruby and bright garnet and medium bodied palate as well as a spectacularly lingering and haunting finish. The Domaine is run by Bernard, Loic and Jocelyne Dugat-Py, the thirteenth generation of family winemakers here at Dugat-Py, they family only their own vines, never buying grapes or wine, they farm organic and have mostly vines older than 65 years old, they believe in traditional and artisan winemaking with an amazing attention to detail from the vineyard to the glass. The Cuvee Coeur de Roy comes from vines 50 to 100 years old, one plot was planted in 1910, they are set on clay and limestone soils and have been biodynamic since 1999, these old vines give such intensity the wine sees 100% new French oak and was aged in barrel for about 18 months, this seems hard to believe when tasting as there is very little trace of oak present, such is the quality and power of the fruit. The nose starts with soft floral tones of wilted roses, hints of violets and moves to spices, earth and black fruit before guiding to the mouth where the remarkable play of texture, energy and fruit is mind blowing, this is the real deal with glorious feel and poise showing black cherry, plum, raspberry, strawberry and blackberry fruits with subtle pepper, cedar, anise and clove along with cinnamon, wild mushroom, dusty tannins and a beam of acidity lifting the pleasure factor higher. Sweet and savory caresses continue on and on here, with rose oil, dried currants, pipe tobacco and a delicate trace of smoky toast, and I couldn’t help fall in love with this Dugat-Py, and I do hope to re-visit this beauty again, it is opulent, decedent and hedonistic Pinot Noir at it’s finest, very impressive, drink from 2018 to 2024.
($240 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive