2014 Weingut Donnhoff, Riesling, Hermannshole, Grosses Gewachs, Trocken, Nahe, Germany.
The Donnhoff Hermannshole GG Trocken Riesling is one of the world’s top wines, in fact in some years it is by far and away the world’s greatest dry white wine, and while the 2014 might not be the best vintage, it certainly deserves high praise and attention. The Hermannshole Grosses Gewachs from the Nahe is a savvy choice every year, especially for those that collect or cellar their wines, it is a great value in it’s class, as the prices for comparable Burgundy offerings, think Coche-Dury, Roulot, Raveneau, Sauzet, Ramonet or even Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, all of which cost double, triple or more than the Donnhoff for Premier Cru or Grand Cru bottlings! The 2014 Donnhoff Hermannshole is refined, stylish and has a near perfect balance of austere subtlety and delicate aromatics with vibrant acidity, vigorous energy and a mix of savory terroir elements all layered together in seamless joy. This all said, the best to come from this vintage is a few years away, be patient, have faith and wait, the rewards will be amazing, as the potential in this and the two other main Grand crus from Donnhoff will need time to fully develop, but the raw material is there, hidden and shying away from the spotlight. Hermannshole is a vineyard Cru that has unique soils, part volcanic, loose rock and slate, this gives a vast array of spice, mineral tones and intensity of fruit, you might compare it to Montrachet or the Les Clos in Chablis, it is one of those very special places and it makes for sublime wines, both dry and sweet, all of which are rare and beautiful! The 2014 Donnhoff Riesling Hermannshole Grosses Gewachs starts with white roses, citrus blossoms and flint rock splinters along with subtle brine, tropical essences and green melon leading to a vibrant palate of lime, grapefruit, apricot and sour apple fruits as well as wet shale, saline, white tea, steely mineral and lingering tangerine and soft peach. This is way too young to unfold completely, but the core elements are lovely and the structure and spine are forming an excellent base for future pleasure, the 2011 and 2012’s were much more flamboyant and blockbusters, this one will take it’s own sweet time to get to it’s best, I hope I get a chance to see and taste it again, there is some wonderful stuff building slowly in this glorious expression, it is worth a go for sure, drink from 2018 to 2027, in the meantime find the 2007, 2009, 2011 and without question grab any 2012 you see!
($75 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive
