2013 La Stoppa, Trebbiolo Rosso, IGT Emilia, Italy.
Elena Pantaleoni’s famous natural wine estate of La Stoppa continues to intrigue the wine world with a unique set of wines from Emilia Romagna region of northern Italy, from her savory Ageno orange wine to a set of Frizante sparklers, a sweet passito Malvasia, then there are the reds, a Barbera and this Trebbiolo red blend of 60% Barbera and 40% Bonarda. The wines farmed here by Elena and her vignaiolo Giulio Armani are all organic, fermented with their native yeast in a combination of stainless tank, concrete vats and cask, with an all natural approach, without any chemicals or additives other than a tiny dose of sulphur at bottling, these are pure expressions of La Stoppa and Emilia. The 2013 Trebbiolo Emilia IGT Rosso is surprisingly forward and different from the last two vintages and really shows the deep and dark fruit of the Barbera with much less reduction (funk) in the nose, though hints of animal/game remain and the mouth feel is fuller and has a certain density and persistence that impresses, this wine has an inner force and vitality. There is an array of layers and a cascade of flavors to enjoy here with floral/dried violets and rose oil, hints of horse, saddle leather, lavender, minty herbs and cinnamon wrapped around a core of tangy plum, black cherry and raspberry fruits along with a touch of earth, truffle, cedar and mineral on the vibrant palate. There is some licorice and tart currant that comes through with air along with faint blueberry and briar notes making for a very pleasing Trebbiolo that feels a bit more ripe and polished than prior efforts, but that is a very good thing and I love this 2013 and it should appeal to a wider audience, drink from 2015 to 2020.
($20 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
