2012 Jean-Francois Ganevat, Chardonnay “Les Chalasses” Vieilles Vignes, Cotes du Jura, France.
The Ganevat Jura wines are to the Jura as Raveneau is to Chablis, these are iconic wines and masterpieces of style and terroir, especially riveting is the Jean-Francois Ganevat Les Chalasses Chardonnay from old vines, planted in 1902, yes this is from well over a hundred year old Chardonnay vines, and it has the presence of a Grand Cru Burgundy. While Ganevat makes a huge range of wines and in traditional and modern Jura styles, everything is crafted with passion and all are deeply detailed and entertaining wines, though I prefer the non-oxidized cuvees which excite with brisk acidity and mineral notes and are ever changing in the glass, and I am also thrilled with his rare lees aged Savignin which is hold ten years before release, that one I tried was the 2002 and it was one of the best white wines I can remember. The 2012 Jean-Francois Ganevat Chardonnay Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes starts like Grand Cru Chablis, I liken it to Les Clos, with steely lime, white flowers, river stones, brisk acidity and powerful structure, this is serious stuff, you know instantly you have something really special in the glass, it is remarkably sensitive to temperature and will certainly fill out in the glass with air, cool it shines like a diamond and has sharp edges, as it warms it gathers intensity and girth with exotic layers unfolding, this Chardonnay is completely mind-blowing! A full range of flavors cascade on the palate with apple, pear, lemon and white stone fruits, saline, chalk and spice adding complexity with earth, golden fig and hazelnut also shinning through, it is stunning throughout and proves the Jura has the terroir to compete with the best and Ganevat joins the elites in Kermit Lynch’s Imports impressive portfolio of great Chardonnays. I can imagine even greater things coming from this wine, though pricey for Jura, it is a steal in it’s quality class, this rare Chardonnay is worth searching out and I would cellar a few bottles, a re-visit in 5 or 10 years looks very rewarding. I tasted this beauty from three different bottles and it was absolutely spectacular from each, amazingly so, consistent and vivid, drink from 2016 to 2022.
($55 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive
