Grapelive: Wine of the Day January 17, 2016

2013ChevillonRoncieres2013 Domaine Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncieres, Premier Cru Red Burgundy, France.
The surprisingly open and expansive 2013 Chevillon Roncieres is a remarkable young Burgundy, absolutely bursting with flavor and seductive charms, this an impressive vintage from Chevillon, the best since 2005 in my opinion. Tasted with the Vieilles Vignes, which is also a thrilling wine, the Les Roncieres takes it to the next level, this is without question a Premier Cru that could easily be mistaken for a Grand Cru, though sadly the prices are starting to reflect that, tiny crops in the last 3 years and the high quality in the bottle have taken Chevillon from a bargain Burgundy to a blue chip elite go to from Nuits-Saint-Georges, on par with Henri Gouges. That said, these 2013’s are worth it and are gorgeous Pinot Noirs, and then there is the rare Pinot Blanc, made from white berried Pinot Noir vines, in my words an “albino Pinot Noir” that is quite lovely too. The Roncieres is all about pleasure, intensity and detail with mineral and subtle earthy undertones to go with rich and pure fruit, it starts with crushed stones, violets, rosewater, huckleberry and cedar before unfolding with black cherry, plum and tart currant that form the core along with blonde tobacco, saline rich chalk, wild mushroom, a hint of leather, anise, tea spices and polished wood influence and grace. This compelling wine is complex, complete and exciting even this youthful and it has decades a life ahead, Les Roncieres a Cru that sometimes gets lost in the shuffle against sites like Chaignots, Vaucrains, Pruliers and Perrieres really holds it’s own here in this vintage and deserves attention and merit, and while not cheap it looks like a rewarding offering, as are all the 2013 wines from Chevillon, it’s a brilliant lineup. I will point out, the Chevillon’s maybe pricy, but at 13% alcohol, with deep layers, pedigree and wonderful terroir with ancient vines are certainly no more expensive than Peter Michael, Kosta Browne and Sea Smoke, so I can without any hesitation recommend these fine Burgundy beauties!
($124 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive