Grapelive Daily Pick
By Kerry Winslow
***
2008 Nikolaihof Riesling Wachau, Austria
Nikolaihof is one of the best wineries, period, and they show total commitment to quality and are totally Bio-Dymanic. This is an artist’s wine and for the wine geek or thinking man’s wine, much like Burgundy is. Their small estate hangs on steep hillsides in the Wachau region not far from the beautiful Danube River, west of Vienna. The wines from this estate are pure and complex, all hand-crafted and intense, I would rank them in my personal top ten white wine producers. I’ve tasted quite a few vintages and always find them stunning and intriguing, they always show a certain power and life, though always beautifully balanced and subtle. This vintage is full of youth and brightness, but there is depth and it should age wonderfully. The nose is full of white flowers, lime leaves, verbena and a whiff of petrol, before a zesty palate of white peach, apricot, citrus and green apple all of which flow together in pretty layers. The body is still tight and structured, but it does open up and give a mouth coating fullness, liquid mineral essence and tangy spices, steel, and a lifting lime citrus all come on the finish. This is a very impressive wine, sadly it is also one that is very hard to find and harder even to get people to try or understand. Also, it should be considered a Premier Cru and the price reflects that, but it is worth it, it really is. ($40 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive