2014 Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon, Saint-Veran, White Burgundy, France.
The 2014 vintage from Lafon’s Maconnais based Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon is beautiful, especially the newest addition to the series, the Saint-Veran, which is a lovely and vital Chardonnay that has depth of flavor and bright energy. The whole of Burgundy seems to be getting a complete reset, in particular the Maconnais and Saint-Aubin have risen up to be the new (old?) Chassagne, now that Puligny, Meursault and Chassagne offerings have all been priced out of affordable realm for most people that enjoy white Burgundy are not high-end collectors. For superb quality at fair prices, Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon wines really deliver, hats off to Dominique Lafon, and while his Domaine des Comtes Lafon continues to be one of the greatest estates in Burgundy, the Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon gets better and more desirable with each year. The Saint-Veran 2014 starts with white flowers, chalk dust, brine and lemony yellow fruits with light rose petal, mineral/steely notes, hazelnut and wet river stones all showing on the vigorous and textured palate along with green apple, white peach, matchstick, golden fig and clove spice with the faintest traces of tropical fruit, honey and quince. This white drinks brilliantly in it’s youth with elegant layers, it shows a Premier Cru Chablis like character though not as flinty with a certain creaminess without loosing it’s dry crisp vibrant/racy qualities, this is exciting and poised Chardonnay. If you are looking for gorgeous white Burgundy that would break the bank, 2014 will be a good vintage to stock up on, with Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Marc Colin and Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon all making very entertaining and savvy wines.
($42 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
