2013 Weingut Rudolf May, Silvaner, Rothlauf Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Franconia Germany.
It was a great pleasure to meet and taste with Rudi May of Weingut Rudolf May, a small family producer in Germany’s Franconia region, they have only been making wine under their own label since 1998, but the family have had their wine estate for more than 300 years. Over the years I’m tried Rudi’s fine examples of Silvaner, mostly from the squat funny shaped bottles that are typical of southern Germany, especially here in Franconia and in Baden, but this time I was in for a great surprise, I got to try his top Cru Pinot Noir and this fantastic Grosses Gewachs Silvaner Rothlauf Trocken, one of the best Silvaner’s I’m ever experienced. The amazing GG Rothlauf from Rudi May is native yeast fermented and raised in concrete egg, on the lees, this wine is very special and is stunning in every way, it certainly is a stunning example of this varietal and it rivals anything from Alsace, it’s grown on delicate shell strewn limestone near the Main river. Rothlauf is a very old slope, these vines are about 52 years old and the yields are small, everything has to be done by hand as the vineyard has a stone wall that makes it impossible to use machines. The nose is fresh and mineral driven with hints of white flowers and light peach leading to a stony cool palate of mixed citrus and stone fruits with unreal class and textures with racy acidity. Graceful and balanced this dry Silvaner Grand Cru shows it’s terroir and depth of character with white peach, lemon/lime, green melon, steely notes plus wet rock and almond oil. This fresh and chalky white has poise, vitality and subtle richness, I was thrilled to sample this joyous wine, and even more excited to hear that the 2014 and 2015 versions are looking even better, also I very much liked the fact that this wine is bottled in a Burgundy sized bottle, making it easier to locate it on the shelf! All of the Weingut May were exceptional and modestly priced, but this Rothlauf Silvaner and the Langenberg Spatburgunder really stood out, both are world class and should age nicely.
($44 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
