2013 Athenais, Irancy Cherelle, Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France.
The Athenaise label is non domaine wines from Athenaise de Beru of Chateau de Beru, a revolutionary natural winemaker in the very north of Burgundy and Chablis. This was first experience of her wines and I was left spellbound by her 2013 Irancy Cherelle Pinot Noir which reminded me of Jean Foillard’s Fleurie (black label) with pretty whole cluster and Gamay like carbonic/organic nattiness. With air the Pinot fruit takes over and wonderful bright cherry, rose petal and strawberry layers shine through on the palate, it similar though more delicate than the Pacalet Burgundy offerings. The 2013 Athenaise Pinot Noir Irancy Cherelle was fermented with natural yeasts and raised in mostly neutral cask, though there has been experiments with amphora and vats, the wine is very low sulfur and is unfined and unfiltered with a light cloudiness. Lavender, spice and mineral notes come through in the background and it deepens on the finish to reveal plum and tangy currants. This wine has a low alcohol feel and a certain earthy rawness which will appeal to the modernists, though even classicalists will find it hard not to be attracted to it’s charms. I must say, I was more than pleased by it’s performance in the glass and want to explore more of Athenaise de Beru’s wines.
($48 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
