2014 Weingut Selbach-Oster, Riesling Kabinett, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel Germany.
At 7.5% alcohol and with beautiful mineral spice the latest Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett from Johannes Selbach shines brightly and feels fresh and opulent, almost creamy, in the mouth. This is pretty stuff, it shows fine balance and has a wonderful mix of rose petal perfume, saline/brine, salty/flint stoniness and a contrast of sweet and tangy fruits with loads of terroir character. The 2014 vintage was extremely difficult with lots of stresses on the growers to make healthy grapes, but the hard work paid off in the end with surprising rewards, especially with Kabinett and Spatlese in the Mosel doing amazingly well, these lightly sweet examples show the best at this stage, while the Trockens (dry styles) will certainly have the upper hand in the 2015 vintage. 2014 is a vintage of delicacy and heightened aromatics, with Selbach’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr showing this to perfection, the nose has a mix of pure rose petal and rose water as well as exotic spices, sea breeze, a hint of hemp/tea and dried honey leading to a lime/mango and fleshy stone fruit peachy palate with shale and river stones. While a Kabinett, this Riesling gathers a bit of weight with air and finishes with a succulent decedent sweetness with juicy apricot and white flowers, while juicy/crunchy acidity keeps it vibrant and crisp, very well judged and poised. From mixed slate slopes on the sunny side of the river the Wehlenner is ripe with yellow fruits, elegantly spiced and steely focused. This should age nicely, but can really be enjoyed as is, a very fine Spring and Summer white, lively, classic and refreshing.
($25 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive
