2014 Domaine de la Condamine L’Eveque, Mourvedre, Cotes de Thongue, France.
The Cotes de Thongue is a small IGP, established in 1982, in the Languedoc-Roussillon near Herault with a huge mix of grape varieties from Cabernet and Merlot to classic Rhone Syrah, Cinnsault, Carignan and Grenache as well as Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Gros Mensang, plus Petit Verdot and this Mourvedre. The area is allowed to use Cotes de Thongue IGT for Reds, Whites and Rose, though still commonly thought of as a simple Vin de Pays, many stellar producers and estates dot the landscape here from Mas de Daumas Gassac to Domaine de la Serre, and Domaine de la Condamine makes wonderful varietal wines that capture the spirit of the place in this region between Montpellier and Narbonne, not too far from the blue Mediterranean. Why these flavorful Domaine de la Condamine L’Eveque wines don’t cost more and are not taken more seriously is beyond me, but that said these are great value wines that deliver handsome quality and are rewarding to drink, especially this 2014 Mourvedre and the Syrah, these are wines to stock up on. The 2014 Condamine Mourvedre, a dark and seductive offering, starts with violets, blueberry and tangy lavender leading to a medium full palate of blackberry, dark cherries and plum jam along with pepper spice, dusty earth notes, anise and black tea. A purity of fruit highlights these wines, there is ripe layers, but they are not heavy or sweet, the tannins are well managed and there remains a touch of gentile acidity, overall these are super pleasing balanced efforts that offer some rustic charm and are easy to quaff, in particular this Mourvedre is a top bargain to enjoy over the next year or so.
($11 Est.) 90+ Points, grapelive
