2014 Whitcraft Winery, Pinot Noir, Pence Ranch, Pommard Clone, Santa Ynez Valley.
This unfined/unfiltered native yeast and whole cluster Pinot Noir from Drake Whitcraft might be the best wine I’m tried from this producer that is celebrating their 30th anniversary. The beautiful Pommard Clone Pence Ranch Pinot is alive with flavors and complex detail with a wonderful textural array on the palate and elegant lightness, it is stunningly only 12.6% alcohol, making those low alcohol zealots salivate, while making those that like a more finessed Pinot Noir that still has ripe and complete character impressed as well, numbers don’t mean anything unless there is a reward and substance in the wine, and this one delivers. The vibrancy of youth still over shadows the whole picture, but you can see the potential in this 2014 Whitcraft, it starts with floral and spicy notes on the nose and a bright ruby/garnet red hue in the glass with just a hint of cloudy unfilteredness, that clears quickly and the palate is an explosion of wild cherry, plum and pomegranate fruits with hints of mineral, chalky stones, cedar and lively pepper, red tea, cinnamon and a touch of smoke. With air a gorgeous silky sensation coats the mouth and satiny tannin and a framboise note lingers on, but lifted delicately with a peach and blood orange burst of acidity, this is a deftly crafted wine that should fill out in all the right places. This will be a fun wine to revisit in 5 to 10 years, not cheap, but very impressive, drink from 2018 to 2028.
($60 Est.) 92+ Points, grapelive
