2015 Turasan, Emir Cappadocian White, Turkey.
From the wild landscapes of Cappadocia in central Turkey comes this vibrant and pleasing Emir white, and considering the origins, religion and politics this wine is somewhat a miracle, proof of some real passion for winemaking given the government’s open hostility to alcohol in any form! Cappadocia is a cross between a haunting moonscape and or something out of a J.R.R. Tolkien novel with huge rock formations that steep up from the ground and forming what they call “Fairy Chimneys” and the region has an interesting and lengthy history from early cave dwellers that caved homes from these impressive stones to being part of the Persian empire, as well as Roman and Byzantine conquests to a hiding place for Christians and Armenian settlers before Turkish clans took over the region and the rule of the Ottoman which came into being in the 15th century. Turkey produces the fourth largest amount of grapes in the world, though most never see the inside of a wine bottle in this pious country, but Anatolia’s Cappadocia is a big wine region and offers a surprising number of varietals and really good wines, especially Emir for whites and Kalecik Karasi for reds. Emir Cappadocian is a refreshing and vital white grape that makes for impressive dry whites and sparklers, though I’ve yet to sample the bubbly, from little I can gather it is a native grape and while good for early consumption it has a reputation for not being an ager or that is reacts badly when put in wood, regardless this Turasan is a lovely example and is serious fun wine that can put a smile on your face and easily please a crowd whether at a pool party, beach picnic or around a middle eastern or Turkish meal. The Turasan Emir is bright with citrus blossom, tangerine, apricot, peach and lemon/lime leading the way with hints of tropical fruit, a light zesty body, faint mineral notes and crisp dry character finishing with mayer lemon and tangy melon. Cappadocia sounds amazing and with history everywhere you look and heritage sites that are breath taking, hopefully I will visit this isolated region, in the meantime I’ll imagine it with this Emir, it is a wine well worth searching out.
($16 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive
