2014 Alberto Nanclares, Albarino, Soverribas, La Vina del Mochuelo, Rias Baixas, Spain.
The Nanclares Albarino(s) are some of the most intellectual and beautiful artisan crafted white wines in Spain, and are some of most stunning examples of varietal and terroir you can find. These transparent and lovely whites show intensity, clarity and vitality with amazing depth and grace, bursting with vigorous acidity, mineral expression and vibrant fruit, even the basic Albarino is gorgeous, but this Soverribas is a single vineyard wine and it has it’s own stamp of character and salty freshness that sets it apart, it’s vivid, briny and has a touch of green that contrasts well against it’s bitter apple and citrus core. Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto make the wines here and have converted to mostly all biodynamic practices and organic methods, and in this marine influenced region of Galicia, that was a huge undertaking and makes for seriously hard work in the vines, but it has it’s rewards and their wines show their passion and grit, these are special wines of remarkable purity and grace. The 2014 vintage Soverribas la Vina del Mochuelo Albarino shines in the glass with a bright pale golden hue and brisk start to the palate, it reminds me of a leesy Muscadet, but with the intense pop of super dry Riesling, while being truly unique to it’s self and pure Albarino with lemon/lime, white peach, wet river stones, saline and steely green melon. Added details emerge with air and the lees give a hint of smoke and body to this zesty medium bodied white along with traces of seashore, chalk, dried herb and flinty spice. This tangy and austere Albarino has a very restrained, super dry, youthfulness, like a Chablis, but really turns on the charm with food, especially mussels, oysters and fish dishes, I love it, and highly recommend searching these Nanclares wines out, these handcrafted and small production wines are imported by Jose Pastor Selections. This Soverribas is an authentic and honest wine that has a sense of place and vintage, drink over the next 3 to 5 years.
($35 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
