2015 Favaro, Erbaluce di Caluso, La Chiusure, Piedmonte Italy.
The father and son team of Benito and Camillo Favaro make some fantastic wines, especially their heart and soul wine made from the rare, indigenous grape Erbaluce, a varietal that almost went extinct and that has been brought back to life in part by the Favaros, along with Ferrando. Erbaluce has a long history in these parts, dated back to the 1600’s, and it was recently given full DOCG status in the area and known as Erbaluce di Caluso in northern Piedmonte. It just maybe Piedmonte’s most interesting white native grape and wine, far more complex and complete than Cortese, found in Gavi, and better than most Arneis, though there are a few like Brovia that reach greatness, but Erbaluce is special and more unique in character and rarity, in particular Favaro Erbaluce di Caluso from their estate hillside vines in the tiny town of Piverone. The 2015 is the best vintage I’ve had of Favaro Erbaluce di Caluso, it is brilliant, crisp and deep in flavor and vitality with white flowers, wet stones, straw and melon notes leading the way along with quince, lemon/lime, white peach and brisk acidity, white tea and saline chalkiness. Medium weighted, vibrant and steely the latest Favaro is lovely and full of their artisan spirit, it lingers with ripe apple and sappy herbs and is gorgeous with most food choices and cuisine options, though best with light pastas and sea food, especially claims and mussels in mildly spicy broths and rustic bread. This dry white is class and balance in the glass, drink this all estate Favaro Erbaluce di Caluso La Chiusure over the next 2 or 3 years, I love Erbaluce as fresh as possible, though it seems to fill out and develop nicely with dried honey, baked pear and earthy tones coming through over time which can be intriguing as well if you wanted to cellar a few bottles, me I’m drinking it pretty much right now!
($23 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
