2013 4 Monos Viticultores, Garnacha “La Danza del Viento” Sierra de Gredos, Vinos de Madrid DO, Spain.
Maybe the boldest expression from these guys and girl at 4 Monos, gang of monkeys, Javier Garcia (also the head winemaker at Méntrida icon Bodegas Jiménez-Landi), co-winemaker Laura Robles, wine-lover David Velasco, and vineyard holder David Moreno. One of the most limited wines from 4 Monos is their Danza del Viento Molino Quemado, it iis from a single parcel named “El Canto de las Brujas” a west-facing plot of 75+ year old Garnacha in the village of San Martín de Valdeiglesias that was planted on rocky granitic soils with gneiss and some pink granite similar to Fleurie in Beaujolais.
The 4 Monos employ old school techniques and focus on natural winemaking with very little sulfur and mostly neutral oak casks, they specialize in old-vine Garnacha, with this one being 100% Garnacha. The grapes used for the Danza del Viento-Molino Quemado were 80% whole-cluster with stems and 100% whole berry cold macerated and 100% wild yeast fermented with a long 50 days maceration on the skins, then it was raised in used 300 and 500 liter barrels for 13 months.
The color of Pinot, the La Danza del Viento 2013 with it’s light garnet/ruby hue is tightly wound and takes a bit of time to unfold in the glass with earthy, lightly funky with a touch of VA, notes on the nose giving way to macerated cherry, strawberry and tangy plum on the light, but structured palate, it takes on a elegant delicacy and intrigue that seduces completely, adding a touch of leather, minty herb and dusty tannins, as well as a rich satiny texture, that certainly remind you this is a natural old world wine, but that only add to the whole thrilling experience, this is wildly amusing wine. Dried herbs, chalky stones and sweet flowers come through with extended air in this pretty wine that delivers on its potential and promise.
4 Monos, along with Comando G, Alfredro Maestro and Jimenez-Landi are leading lights in this area above Madrid, helping made lovely Garnacha from the Sierra de Gredos some of the most interesting and sought after wines in Spain, and after a few vintages I highly recommend discovering them. These wines, from Gredos, are revolutionary and have won fans around the world, don’t miss them.
($42 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive