N.V. Billecart-Salmon, Brut Rose, Champagne, France.
This latest edition of Billy Rose is delicate, lean and oh so delightful, this is one of the finest lots of this classic bubbly in my memory, it shows deft blending, remarkable clarity and detail with a refined mousse. There are better wines out there, some that might be cheaper, but it is hard not to fall head over heels for this joyous and elegant Champagne, this edition of their fabled Rose really hits the spot with a dreamy pale hue, tight bubbles, lifting acidity, mineral tones, slight yeasty brioche and heavenly hints of strawberry, red berry and tangerine essences along with lemon, apple skin and bread dough. This crisp and focus sparkler really keeps your interest from first sip to the painful moment when you have to toss the bottle into the recycling bin, Billecart-Salmon has raised their game here and the whole lineup of Champagne from this historic house reflect a renewed commitment and puts talent on display at each level, if you see any of their 2002 vintage cuvee(s) buy them, forget the price, they are masterpieces, but in the meantime the Brut Rose non-vintage will not disappoint, and it seems in good supply both at the restaurant and retail level, even though it is a rare item, so if you are looking for that perfect romantic wine this new years, this wouldn’t be a bad choice at all, it is a subtle and graceful Champers, no question.
($85-94 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
avail at www.sfwtc.com ($79.95)